I Can’t Stop Now

There is no way that I can just let my builds sit without getting any work done. Especially with how close I am to my year end goal. I may not be putting in the time that I normally do, but it all adds up the same in the end.
So there isn’t a whole lot to report. The MiG has been covered in Future Floor Polish and is ready for decals. The use of Future has been a popular topic as of late and I decided to experiment with it. Normally, I would use my airbrush to apply it. The question was asked if you HAD to use an airbrush. The decision was to apply the Future using a paintbrush. I tested an area on the underside first using a one inch brush. After it dried and all looked well, I proceeded to go over the entire plane carefully. Treat it as you would paint. It will run and collect in certain areas like paint does. You will notice brush strokes as you go but do not worry as they level out to a smooth shiny surface. Now I will say this about this method. It is still being applied with a brush and it doesn’t compare to using an airbrush. It will work on the MiG because it will get a matte finish after the decals have been applied. In a pinch it will do.
With the MiG close to being complete, my focus is now on getting some paint on the Ventura and Buffalo. The Ventura is masked and ready to go. I just need to steal some time at the airbrush to get both planes painted. I’ll get to it at the first opportunity. Until then, I’ll be working on my next few builds and I can get the MiG out of the way. Keep moving forward!



15 thoughts on “I Can’t Stop Now

    • From what I have gathered, it seals better. In my opinion, it is way better than a rattle can of gloss and a lot easier to apply. It fixes fogging and scratches in clear parts. I just started using it and I won’t go another build without it. It’s great stuff!

      Liked by 1 person

      • Its also impervious to most other solvents. So if, for example, you put an enamel based wash over the top of it you won’t damage the colors underneath.


  1. Discussion back in 1998


    Future Floor Wax

    Future floor polish

    Posted By: John Acosta
    Date: Sunday, 27 September 1998, at 2:14 a.m.

    I have recently returned to model building after a very long hiatus. I used to built Armour. Now I’m building aircraft. I have seen many passing references in the modeling literature regarding the use of Future Acrylic floor polish. I have a bottle of it (which I should also use on my floors) and was wondering what some of the tricks and potential hazards are in using this product. (Does it bead up or fog in any way; how long does the finish last? Can I mix it into acrylic paint? Can I use it to simulate the varnish used in IJN aircraft?)
    Your tips and comments are very much welcome.


    Re: Future floor polish

    Posted By: Mark Shannon
    Date: Monday, 28 September 1998, at 12:02 p.m.

    In Response To: Future floor polish (John Acosta)

    “Future” is pretty bullet-proof in use — I use it in most of my modeling, and it helps give a good tough finish for decaling and weathering.
    When spraying with an airbrush, keep the brush moving and watch carefully — otherwise you will find that you have a runny buildup before you know it. This is a general warning with any of the acrylic clear coats, by the way.
    Clear parts, Future is a good protecting agent, including giving a good hedge against the ‘chlorosis’ white spray effect that cyanoacrylate glues can cause on windows and such, but for very large windows, great care must be taken or you will notice the optically uneven coating.
    If the Future coat hasn’t dried at least twenty-four hours, or if you use large amounts of decal sets, you will see the Future turn white — DON’T PANIC, the coat will clear again as it dries, but it is very soft and will take fingerprints or other marks until it is thoroughly dried out again.
    Future does not seem to be compatible with Tamiya acrylics, though it does seem fine with PollyScale. I found this out when I wanted to make a slightly tinted clear coat using the Tamiya clear colors (it was for a ‘toner’ on a varnished wood WWI type.)
    Finally, as far as the problems go, you need to make sure that you have washed the model thoroughly before spraying — otherwise every fingerprint on the surface will be indelibly etched out in the clear coat.
    If you don’t clean brushes or the airbrush right away, you can get old Future out by using a little household ammonia in water.
    Other than these tips, all I can say is experiment. You can apply Future directly, diluted with tap water, diluted with windshield washer fluid, by spraying, brushing, or swabbing. Use relatively thin coats, but they will dry in about 30 minutes, and reach maximum hardness and gloss in 24-48 hours.


    Re: Future floor polish

    Posted By: Andrei Koribanics
    Date: Monday, 28 September 1998, at 12:12 p.m.

    In Response To: Future floor polish (John Acosta)

    Hi John and welcome back!

    Future is great for many applications: 1) as an overall gloss finish (over enamels or acrylics…works equally well) 2) to provide an excellent surface for decal application in order to prevent silvering (spray over flat paint where needed or overall) 3) as a barrier between your base coat and subsequent weathering painting, when you don’t want to disturb the base coat…and as a bonus…even helps injected canopies appear clearer by filling in the minute tooling ‘scratches’. In this case, some modelers dip the canopy quickly in a jarful… others prefer a rapid, but thorough brush application. It is usually applied with an airbrush, unthinned, at about 10-25 psi…it levels beautifully…you CAN thin it with water or alcohol, but I don’t find this necessary. Clean your gun with water, then a flushing of Lacquer Thinner.
    I haven’t tried mixing it with paints, but would only do so with acrylic (water-based) paints…experiment with it! It will bead up if your air pressure is too low, but doesn’t fog…I haven’t noticed any discoloration in models done years ago, but I assume it will discolor in time…then again, what doesn’t? How long does the finish last? Probably indefinitely!
    As far as using it to replicate varnish on IJN aircraft…here we go again! Let’s just say that yes, since it is glossy, it can be used to replicate clear varnish!
    Like anything else…work in a well-ventilated area. There are no tricks, really, and no particular hazards that I can think of…use common sense! Also…see Mike Good’s post on Panel Lines
    Happy modeling!


    Re: Future floor polish

    Posted By: Terry Garrard
    Date: Monday, 28 September 1998, at 4:22 p.m.

    In Response To: Re: Future floor polish (Andrei Koribanics)

    The only caveat that I have found with Future is that it doesn’t age well. Over time it may crackle and it will almost definitely yellow.

    The Future debate revisited

    Posted By: C.S. Richardson
    Date: Saturday, 13 November 1999, at 5:13 p.m.

    The discussion concerning the ease/difficulty of applying Future to models has spanned many months (years?) and many discussion groups. My #1 son and I made an interesting observation this past week: using an external mix airbrush gave great results; the internal mix was a pain. Has anyone else made that observation? If you are one of many who have difficulty, as I often have, are you using an internal mix airbrush? I’m a researcher by trade; just gathering data points – care to contribute your experience?
    Maybe this data gathering could include acrylic paints in general, as well.


    Re: The Future debate revisited

    Posted By: Tom Hall
    Date: Sunday, 14 November 1999, at 8:14 a.m.

    In Response To: The Future debate revisited (C.S. Richardson)

    I have never tried this stuff but it sounds like the greatest thing since sliced bread. Is there any record of it yellowing over time? The way some of Pactra’s paints did…. As I recall, my Aurora Dracula went from ghoulish to jaundiced as I was growing up!

    Re: The Future debate revisited

    Posted By: Rob Graham
    Date: Sunday, 14 November 1999, at 11:13 a.m.

    In Response To: Re: The Future debate revisited (Tom Hall)

    I haven’t tried it, either, but have heard it won’t yellow.
    My wife said it does yellow, as she has used it on floors. She could be mistaken, as she uses a lot of things around the house, so I don’t know. I will say (to her credit) that she is meticulous with her housekeeping, especially the floors, though two kids around now makes it much harder.
    So, my understanding is that since Future is acrylic, it can’t yellow, but must take my wife’s comment into consideration. I have found that display cases protect models from yellowing, no matter the finish. I plan to use Future or Testors Acryl to finish a few to see what happens, and I’m sure it will be better than the lacquers which are soft and absorb impurities (causing yellowing) for a long time.
    Hope this helps,


    Re: The Future debate revisited

    Posted By: Jerry Wesolowski
    Date: Sunday, 14 November 1999, at 12:31 p.m.

    In Response To: Re: The Future debate revisited (TONY)

    And now for the sad news. About five years ago I built up a WINGS 48 JILL. I coated the canopy with Future to show of the scratch built interior. When the Hasegawa kit was released, I took the vacu-formed kit off the shelf to compare them side-by-side. Lo and behold’ over time the future finish does indeed yellow. So much so that it almost looked as if I had sprayed the canopy with Tamiya clear yellow. I hate to burst any bubbles but it really was noticeable. Has anyone else had this problem?


    Re: The Future debate revisited

    Posted By: Pete Chalmers
    Date: Sunday, 14 November 1999, at 3:48 p.m.

    In Response To: The Future debate revisited (C.S. Richardson)

    I agree – I use my Paasche H-1 (ext. mix ) for Future or (my preference) Polly Scale Clear Gloss, and save my internal mix brushes for enamels. Too tough to clean! I would highly recommend this simple old-fashioned brush, even if this is the only thing you use it for. They are now available for $30 or less.
    One trick I use is to polish the needle (well, Paasche calls it a needle!) with a bit of 2000 or finer Micromesh prior to each session. I’ve sprayed 100 % or 50/50 alcohol – no real diff.
    Another trick to get Future to smooth out beautifully is to spray the completed finish LIGHTLY with denatured alcohol – this remelts just the surface of the Future, which then re-hardens, eliminating orange peel. This also cleans out the brush! Practice – you don’t want to melt it all off.
    I use Floquil Enamels – Future or some other acrylic is mandatory as an oil wash protectant over these.
    I used the “remelt” method on the box-model for the new Accurate Miniatures Grumman F3F-2 – coming soon! (I’ll keep an eye out for yellowing, but it’s OK after 10 months). This method allowed the use of Japan. I.D. Yellow (see, this is really NOT off-topic) for the wing top, which is a perfect match for USN Pre-war Orange-yellow – and provides a way to “Gloss” flat paints. Also sprayed over the RWB USMC tail stripes and the Old Silver/Platinum Mist “aluminum lacquered areas.
    For canopies, use carnauba wax after polishing – you’ll never go back to Future.
    Above all, let the Future “cure” for at least 24 hours before decaling.

    Re: The Future debate revisited

    Posted By: TONY
    Date: Sunday, 14 November 1999, at 4:15 p.m.

    In Response To: Re: The Future debate revisited (Jerry Wesolowski)

    Yes! I think it was about “92” that Future came out with a so-called new formula that was never to yellow. And many modelers found out the hard way that this stuff was no good. Since then they have corrected this. I have some models that are more than 10 years old and still look fine.

    Flat Future

    Posted By: Grant Goodale
    Date: Tuesday, 3 April 2001, at 9:48 a.m.

    Hello world –
    I have been using “flat Future” to final coat some of my models. I mixed a small amount of Tamiya Flat Base in with straight Future. I spray it and it usually looks great. However, every so often, I end up with some small white flecks in the finish.
    What am I doing wrong?


    Posted By: Clark Hollis
    Date: Friday, 6 April 2001, at 10:18 p.m.

    Hi Grant,
    I don’t know, for sure, what the problem is. It sounds like the flat base is not getting dissolved completely. Try adding some Tamiya thinner to the mix and then, stir and shake the mix thoroughly before running it through a strainer into your paint jar. If all else fails, try adding lacquer thinner to a small batch, just to see what happens.
    Let us know the results.


    • Definitely some good stuff there. But I really need to weigh in on the “yellowing” thing. I’ve been using Future for 15 years on my models and I’ve never seen a hint of it. Not even the tiniest bit.

      My guess would be that something else entirely is going on. Like two different mediums that don’t like each other. I will admit, I display my models in a basement, so I don’t know if someone is displaying in more harsh conditions, like direct sunlight, that it may be degrading the finish.

      I work mostly with Model Master Enamels. I also use Metalizer, Testors Dull Coat and Tamiya Acrylics. I’ve used Future both beneath and on top of all those other paints, and I’ve never seen anything “yellow”.
      The only difficulty with the product is, as one of those commenters mentioned, it will puddle up quickly if you don’t keep the airbrush moving!


      • Thanks for sharing your experience with this.
        I have an airbrush but used it only a few times 30 years ago.
        One day I will use it. Don’t know when though,


  2. One more here


    Plastic models take a variety of forms, from models planes and cars to model figurines. Regardless of the type of model, Johnson’s Future Finishing Floor Wax is sometimes used, especially in places where there are clear parts, like the windows of a model car or plane. The wax not only protects the model, but it goes on clear and it does not result in cloudy parts after application. Though originally the floor wax was developed for acrylic flooring, it is now widely used for plastic models.

    Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_6795982_use-wax-coat-plastic-models.html


    1 Clean the plastic model parts with a mild soap and water to remove dirt, mold or anything else that might be on the model. Make sure any fingerprints are removed as well to prevent sealing in the finger prints with the wax.
    2 Dip the pieces of the model into the Future Finishing Floor Wax by holding the handle of the part. Lift the piece out and examine it for dust or bubbles. If there are bubbles or dust, dip it again and move it slightly side to side to release the bubbles.

    3 Dip a paintbrush into the wax and cover the plastic model or pieces with the wax. Paint carefully to get into every crevice and piece. Painting is required when dipping is not an option. Using an airbrush is appropriate in place of a paintbrush if preferred.
    4 Remove excess liquid. Set the pieces on the paper so that the parts of the model that will not be seen are directly on the paper. Gently touch the various parts of the model piece and allow the excess liquid to come off. Once all of the parts are touched by the paper, a uniform coating of wax is seen.
    5 Allow the finishing wax to dry. It takes around one day or so before the wax is completely dry. Do not touch the piece beforehand to prevent imprinting fingerprints or putting indentations.


  3. That’s an interesting discussion going on there. I’ve never heard of applying polish of any kind to a model. Mind you, I’ve been out of it for a good number if years. Does It actually make a big difference to the overall finish?


      • Thanks, that’s really Interesting – I’d like to see a comparison of a model with and one without. I guess it would be more noticeable in real life (as opposed to electronic!)


      • Well if you look at my F-14 build, it is finished in Future. The vast percentage of my builds aren’t glossy so there really isn’t anything to compare it with. The F-14 was sprayed with Gloss from a can that ended up with a few different appearances. The Future evened it all out with a uniform gloss.


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